I was forced into dressmaking in the early 1960's and nothing I made fitted terribly well; not sure a well gathered dirndle skirt fit anybody very well. I ended up spending a fortune on fabrics and patterns, and still buying all my clothes from Miss Selfridge and Biba! Never daunted, I've kept trying over the years without success, until today of course when all will be different! 😅
I've bought a pattern and some lovely blue drapey fabric. (Double Gauze which has no right or wrong side or pattern direction, so an easy start I hope)
Actually it turned out to be quite easy and I thought I'd share the process just in case you ever needed a dart anywhere!! Don't be horrified by the number of steps - I've tried to spell it out and it always looks complicated when you do that, as you'll know if you've ever tried to explain peeling a potato step by step.
Find your front pattern piece/s. Mine only had the one because it was placed on the fold. On the paper pattern piece mark in the seam lines with a pen or pencil all the way around. This is so that you can hold the pattern piece up to yourself to mark where you need a dart.
With the pattern piece against you mark the high point of your boobs (ok, the apex if you prefer!) with a cross on the pattern piece. Take your time to get this position right and wear a good bra.
Lay the pattern piece on the flat and draw a line from the middle of the apex to the bottom of the hem. Look at the photo below if you're not sure where I mean.
Draw a line from the apex to the armhole - make a mark about 1/3 of the way up from the armhole side seam and then join this dot to the apex.
Last line! Join a line from the apex to the side seam where you want the dart to be - in general, most bust darts angle down an inch or more below the level of the apex
Cut the pattern piece from the hem, along line 1 to the apex. Swing the scissors and continue cutting along line 2 nearly to the edge. Leave a bit of paper for a pivot.
Steps 6 and 7, cutting the pattern piece
Cut the pattern piece from the side seam along line 3 almost to the apex. Leave a bit of paper uncut so it can swing open.
Lay the pattern down and gently increase the space between the edges of line 1. For a D cup I've allowed 3/4" This will mean that the other 2 cuts will open naturally. Keep it all lying flat.
Paper pattern piece which can now open to include extra fabric for a dart. A 3/4 inch gap has been left on line 1 and the other cuts have swung open into the right places.
I've popped coloured tissue paper underneath the pattern piece, and sellotaped it into place for stability. I might want to use this pattern again.
You'll notice that the bottom of the pattern has a step in it. All you do is pop a bit of tissue paper under the end, and redraw the line from the longer pattern piece to the other side.
All done! If you are largish of boob, doing this on something without a dart will help make it fit better.